This step by step woodworking project is about free 16×24 run in shed plans. This is PART 2 of the project, where I show you how to build the lean to roof for the 16×24 run in shed. Remember that you need to read the local building codes before selecting the right location for the shed and before building the shed. See my other DIY projects HERE.
We recommend you to invest in the best materials you could afford. Therefore, you should buy weather-resistant lumber, such as pine or cedar. Always take accurate measurements before adjusting the size of the components at the proper size. Drill pilot holes trough the components before inserting the wood screws, to prevent the wood from splitting.
Made from this plan
16×24 Run In Shed Roof Plans
- E – 2 pieces of T1-11 siding – 45 3/4″ long, 2 pieces – 33″x48″ long, 2 pieces – 20″x48″ long SIDING
- F – 4 pieces of 2×12 lumber – 144″ long BEAMS
- G – 4 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 141″ long SUPPORTS
- H – 1 piece of 6×6 lumber – 188 1/4″ long POST
- I – 4 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 34″ long BRACES
- J – 9 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 216″ long RAFTERS
- K – 10 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 48″x96″ long, 4 pieces – 48″x48″ long, 3 pieces – 24″x96 long ROOF
- L – 500 sq ft of tar paper, 500 sq ft of asphalt shingles ROOFING
- M – 2 pieces of 2×8 lumber – 216″ long, 2 piece – 292 1/4″ long TRIMS
- 1 piece of 6×6 lumber – 16′
- 13 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 18′
- 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 6′
- 4 pieces of 2×8 lumber – 14′
- 14 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 4’x8′
- 4 pieces of T1-11 siding – 4’x8′
- 4 pieces of 2×8 lumber – 16′
- 500 sq ft of tar paper, 500 sq ft of asphalt shingles
- 1 5/8″ screws, 2 1/2″ screws, 3 1/2″ screws
- 4 1/2″ lag bolts
- rafter ties
- 6d nails
- wood filler , wood glue, stain/paint
- Safety gloves, glasses
- Miter saw, jigsaw
- Chalk line, tape measure, spirit level, carpentry pencil
- Drill machinery and drill bits
How to build the lean to roof for the 16×24 shed
The first step of the project is to build the support post for the lean to roof. Mark the posts from 6×6 lumber. As you can easily notice in the diagram, you need to lock the posts in concrete. Dig at least 3′ into the ground and set the posts in concrete, making sure you plumb it with a spirit level. Use temporarily braces to hold the post plumb while the concrete sets.
After fitting the post into place, you need to attach the double 2×12 beams to the front of the shed. Fit the beams, drill pilot holes and insert 4 1/2″ lag bolts. Use a spirit level to check if the top beam is perfectly horizontal.
Fit 2×6 lumber to the sides of the run in shed. Align the edges flush, drill pilot holes and lock the beams into place with 4 1/2″ screws.
Fit 2×4 braces to the front of of the shed. Cut both ends of the braces at 45 degrees and lock them into place with 3 1/2″ screws.
Attach the 3/4″ plywood sheets to the top of the rafters. Align the edges flush, drill pilot holes and insert 1 5/8″ screws into the rafters, every 8″. Leave no gaps between the sheets for a professional result.
Fit the 2×8 trims to the sides and to the front and back of the shed. Align the edges with attention, drill pilot holes and insert 3 1/2″ screws to lock them into place tightly.
You could fit asphalt shingles to protect the shed, as it is a straight forward solution. Therefore, install roofing felt over the roofing sheets, making sure the strips overlap at least 2″. Secure the tar paper to the plywood sheets with roofing staples. Fit the side drip edges over the roofing felt, while the bottom drip edges should be fit under. Place a starting course at the bottom of the roof, before installing the asphalt shingles. Always read the manufacturing instructions before starting the installation, as there are several aspects that differ.
Smart Tip: The first course should star with a 3 tab shingle, the second course with a 2 1/2 tab , the third course with a 2 tab, the forth course with a 1 1/2 tab, the fifth course with a 1 tab, the sixth course with a 1/2 tab. Repeat the process from the beginning, starting with the seventh course. Don’t forget that the shingles should overhang from the drip edge about a 1/4″. In addition, secure the asphalt shingles to the roof decking with tacks.
Last but not least, you need to take care of the finishing touches. Fill the holes with wood putty and smooth the surface smooth with 120-220 grit sandpaper. Apply a few coats of paint or stain over the components to protect them from decay and to enhance the look of the shelter.
You can make adjustments to the design and to the size of the loading shed, to suit your needs and budget. For example you can attach corrugated sheets to the sides, back and to the top of the shed, instead of T1-11 siding. Moreover, you can easily use poles instead of wall frames.
If you want to build the frame the 16×24 shed, you should check out PART 1 of the project. If you like my project, don’t forget to SHARE it on Facebook and Pinterest.
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