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This step by step woodworking project is about free 12×16 garden shed plans. This storage shed is large enough to provide storage space for the needs of a family. The shed features double front doors and a side man door, for an easy access to the interior. Remember that you need to read the local building codes before selecting the right location for the shed and before building the shed. See my other DIY projects HERE.
We recommend you to invest in the best materials you could afford. Therefore, you should buy weather-resistant lumber, such as pine or cedar. Always take accurate measurements before adjusting the size of the components at the proper size. Drill pilot holes trough the components before inserting the wood screws, to prevent the wood from splitting. See all my Premium Plans HERE.
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Made from this plan
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Free 12×16 Garden Shed Plans
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Materials
- A – 4 pieces of 4×4 lumber – 192″ long SKIDS
- B – 2 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 192″ long, 13 pieces – 141″long JOISTS
- C – 5 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 48″x96″ long, 2 pieces – 48″x48″ long FLOOR
- D – 1 piece of 2×4 lumber – 144″ long, 1 piece – 137″ long, 2 pieces – 20 1/2″ long, 6 pieces – 91 1/2″ long, 2 pieces – 82 1/2″ long, 10 pieces – 3 1/2″ long, 2 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 99″ long FRONT WALL
- E – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 144″ long, 1 piece – 137″ long, 10 pieces – 91 1/2″ long BACK WALL
- F – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 192″ long, 1 pieces – 185″long, 15 pieces – 91 1/2″ long SIDE WALL
- G – 1 piece of 2×4 lumber – 192″ long, 1 pieces – 185″long, 1 piece – 11 3/4″ long, 1 piece – 136″ long, 2 pieces – 82 1/2″ long, 5 pieces – 3 1/2″ long, 4 pieces – 15 1/2″ long, 2 pieces – 36″ long, 4 pieces – 29″ long, 2 pieces – 35″ long, 4 pieces – 36″ long, 15 pieces – 91 1/2″ long  SIDE WALL
- H – 12 pieces of T1-11 – 48″x96″ long, 1 piece – 12″x48″ long WALL SIDING
- 2 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 16′
- 13 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 12′
- 2 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 10′
- 3 pieces of 2×6 lumber – 6′
- 6 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 16′
- 5 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 12′
- 55 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 8′
- 6 pieces of 3/4″ plywood – 4’x8′
- 4 pieces of 4×4 lumber – 16′
- 13 pieces of T1-11 – 48″x96″
- 1 piece of 1/2″ plywood – 48″x96″
- 8d nails, 2 1/2″ screws, 3 1/2″ screws, 1 5/8″ screws
- wood filler , wood glue, stain/paint
- joist hanger
- structural nails for ties
Tools
- Miter saw
- Circular saw
- Drill machinery, drill bits
- Safety gloves, glasses
- Chalk line, tape measure, spirit level, carpentry pencil
Time
- 1 week
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Building a 12×16 storage shed
The first step of the project is to build the floor of the shed from 2×6 joists. Cut the joists at the right dimensions and then lay them on a level surface. Drill pilot holes through the side joists and insert 3 1/2″ screws into the perpendicular components. Make sure the corners are square and align the edges flush.
Select the location for the shed, making sure you comply with the local codes. Fit the 4×4 skids equally spaced and then attach the floor frame. Use screws or rafter ties to lock the skids to the frame together tightly.
Fit the 3/4″ plywood sheets to the floor of the shed. Cut the sheets at the right dimensions and then align the edges flush. Leave no gaps between the sheets and then secure them to the joists, every 8″. Insert 1 5/8″ screws to secure the sheets into place tightly.
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Building the wall frames
Build the plain side wall from 2×4 lumber. Drill pilot through the plates and insert 3 1/2″ screws into the studs. Place the studs every 16″ on center. Place double studs to both ends of the walls and make sure the corners are square.
Build the back wall for the shed in the same manner described above. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert 3 1/2″ screws into the studs. Place the studs every 16″ on center.
Frame the front wall from 2×4 lumber. As you can easily notice in the plans, you need to leave enough space for double door opening, which you can adjust to suit your needs. Use 2×6 lumber for the double header. Fit 1/2″ plywood between the beams and then sandwich them together with 2 1/2″ screws.
Framing the other side wall for the storage shed is a little bit more complex, as you need to frame a window opening and a door opening. Use 2×6 lumber and 1/2″ plywood for the headers. Moreover, you can adjust the size of the openings to suit your needs. Drill pilot holes and insert 3 1/2″ screws to lock everything together tightly.
Fit the wall frames to the floor of the shed. Align the edges flush and drill pilot holes through the bottom plates. Insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure the walls to the floor frame. Moreover, you need to lock the adjacent walls together tightly. Make sure the corners are square, drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws.
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Attaching the siding sheets
Attach the 4’x8′ T1-11 siding to the side wall of the shed. Align the edges flush with the top and insert 6-8d nails, every 8″ along the framing. Leave no gaps between the sheets, for a professional result.
Fit the panels to the opposite side wall, as shown in the diagrams. Use a saw to make cuts so you can fit the sheets around the openings.
Fit the siding sheets to the back of the shed. Use 6-8d nails to lock the sheets into place. Leave no gaps between the sheets for a professional result.
Fit the panels to the front wall of the shed. Make the cuts so the panels fit around the double door opening.
This garden shed is ideal for any backyard, as it provides storage space and an easy access to the interior, due to the double front doors and to the side man door.
If you want to build the gable roof for this large storage shed, you should check out PART 2 of the project. Check out PART 3 of the project, so you learn how to build the double doors and the side door for the shed.
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18 comments
Building a 12 x 16 with a gable roof would measure how high to the ridge if built directly on ground. I can calculate if I build it up.
The shed is about 12′ high.
I’d like to modify this plan to be used on a concrete slab. What would I need to attach it to the slab, since there will be no wood floor?
You need to use threaded rods under the bottom wall plates, Set the rods about 4″ in concrete. Fit a rod between every other stud space and at each corner for a nice support.
Hey man, love the plans, super thorough. Quick question though, for the front wall and the second side wall when you say “sandwich” the plywood between two 2×6 boards, what exactly do you mean by that?
For the double headers you need to fit a piece of 1/2″ plywood between the 2×6 boards so you get an overall thickness of 3 1/2″: 1 1/2″ + 1 1/2″ + 1/2″
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and plans! What kind of insulation would you recommend? And are there any plan modifications need to accommodate the insulation? I would be building this in a very sunny, snowy, and windy place, and using it to store paintings and other art.
I would use spray foam. That is the most efficient from what I know.
Although there were ‘letters’ (I, J, K, L, M) for the roof components/materials on the first drawing, I didn’t see any info on the roof (materials list & construction). Did you leave it off on purpose?
Also, I will be putting the shed on a concrete pad. What size (3/8″, 1/2″ diameter) bolts should I use to anchor the shed?
You have PART 2 of the project for that. 1/2″ in diameter with 7″-8″ in length
How would you start if you are building with a dirt floor
I would use 4×4 skids under the wall frames, on all sides. And then I would anchor the shed to the ground.
How does the material list change if I want two plain side walls? I do not want a door or window on the side.
That’s hard to tell in a comment. It would need to redo the whole list. Probably you ll need a few boards less.
I want to biild 12 x 16 shed out of air ctrete each panel will be 16 ” center c chanel filled with air crete could you send me your plans for 12 x16 shed thank you
Sincerely
Joseph Shanabarger
Thank you for sharing what you know and taking the time to create this!!helped so much. Quick question if I were to make it a slanted roof how high do I think it’ll have to be or would that even matter? Would I maybe need less materials?
I live in the north east Pennsylvania. I am assuming the 2 x 4 s used for framing out the roof are adequate for snow loads?
How hard would it be to put the double door on the side instead of on the end.?