This step by step woodworking project is about free outhouse plans. I have designed this wood outhouse so you can build one without much effort and with a minimum investment. This outhouse has a lean to roof and a large front door, so you can seal it and to have an easy access to the interior of the shelter. See my other DIY projects HERE.
We recommend you to invest in the best materials you could afford. Therefore, you should buy weather-resistant lumber, such as pine or cedar. Always take accurate measurements before adjusting the size of the components at the proper size. Drill pilot holes trough the components before inserting the wood screws, to prevent the wood from splitting.
Made from this plan
Free Outhouse Plans
- A – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 72″ long, 4 pieces – 45″ long, 2 pieces – 43″ long FLOOR FRAME
- B – 13 pieces – 48″ long, 2 pieces – 22 1/2″ long FLOOR
- C – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 48″ long, 4 pieces – 67 1/8″ long 2xSIDE WALL
- D – 4 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 5 1/2″ long, 4 pieces – 67 1/4″ long FRONT WALL
- E – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 41″ long, 3 pieces – 67 1/8″ long BACK WALL
- F – 2 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 48″ long, 5 pieces – 9 1/4″ long TOP FRAME
- G – 1 piece of T1-11 siding – 48″x82 1/2 long, 1 piece – 48″x70 1/4″ long SIDING
- 31 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 10′
- 2 pieces of T1-11 siding – 4’x8′
- 3 1/2″ screws, 1 1/4″ screws
- 6d nails
- wood glue, stain/paint, wood filler
- Safety gloves, glasses
- Miter saw, jigsaw
- Chalk line, tape measure, spirit level, carpentry pencil
- Drill machinery and drill bits
- One Day
Building a wood outhouse plans
The first step of the project is to build the frame for the outhouse. Cut the components at the right dimensions from 2×4 lumber. Drill pilot holes through the rim joists and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the perpendicular components. This outhouse has this awesome platform in the front, which makes access to the interior very easy.
Continue the project by fitting the 2×4 decking to the floor frame. Place a nail between the slats so you create some drainage gaps between the decking slats. Drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws to lock them into place tightly.
Build the side walls for the outhouse from 2×4 lumber. Cut all the components at the proper dimensions described in the diagram and then lock them with 3 1/2″ screws. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert 3 1/2″ screws into the studs. Make sure the corners are aligned and check of the edges are flush.
Build the back wall for the outhouse in the same manner described above. Drill pilot holes through the plates and insert 3 1/2″ screws into the studs.
Fit the wall frames to the floor of the outhouse. Drill pilot holes through the bottom plates and insert 2 1/2″ screws onto the floor. In addition, align the edges flush and make sure the corners are square. Drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws to lock the adjacent walls together tightly.
Last but not least, build the small front walls using the techniques described above. Fit the walls to the front of the outhouse. Drill pilot holes and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the side walls and into the floor.
Build the top frame for the front wall from 2×4 lumber. Cut the components from 2×4 lumber.
Fit the small frame into place and align the edges flush. Drill pilot holes through the bottom plate and insert 2 1/2″ screws into the front wall.
Use T1-11 siding for the front of the outhouse. Make cuts to the panel so you can fit the panel around the door opening. Align the edges flush and use 6-8d nails to lock them into place tightly.
Attach T1-11 siding to the back of the outhouse, as well. Use 6-8d nails to secure the sheets into place, every 8″ along the studs.
Make sure you check out PART 2 of the project, so you learn how to build the roof, the door and the seat for the outhouse. If you like my project, don’t forget to SHARE it on Facebook and Pinterest.
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